Travelling through Hvar, Croatia
Day 4 – Hvar
We packed up early and made our way to the port in Drvenik to get the ferry across to Hvar. Drvenik was obviously a holiday destination for locals and also the place we found the cheapest ice cream. The car ferry took us across to Sucuraj, where the roads curved every 100m and proceeded to make us both feel car sick by the time we arrived in Hvar itself.
Known as a party destination for the super rich, the port was full of super yachts and the view from our balcony across the marina was really cute. Our Air B&B host checked us in to our new apartment and gave us her recommendations for where to eat including a restaurant called Dalmatino she said was the best restaurant in the world. She also left us a little personalised gift of lavender wraps.
For lunch we headed towards Fig Cafe Bar who told us their afternoon delivery hadn’t arrived and they couldn’t serve us for another hour. Feeling very hungry and with no back up option we went to Pizzeria Ex Rocco because from the outside the food looked good and my hunger didn’t allow me to engage by brain any further. We ordered a pizza and a Greek salad to share and then headed up to the fort because everything worth seeing is up a hill.
We generally wandered around and chilled by one of the bays before heading back to the apartment to get ready for dinner.
Jack has slowly been forcing me to eat and try more and more food. One of the most exciting things to him about visiting Croatia was to eat lots of fish, something which I am not hugely keen on or brave enough to order in a restaurant yet, but am slowly getting use to. He found some reviews for a restaurant called Junior which he then decided he really wanted to visit. He ordered a seabream, squid ink risotto with cuttlefish and some calamari, which we promptly devoured. I was pleasantly surprised by it all and definitely recommend that you book if you want to go here as there was a continual queue of people waiting in the small street for this cute small family run business.
Both of us left with black lips and tongues and rolled down the road to Nonica, the pudding shop. We picked up a couple of bits and then wandered back round to the harbour to sit and admire the super yachts.
One thing I had read about Hvar was getting boat trips across to the Blue Cave, some people had said that it’s just something you have to do when you’re there but it’s become very touristy. They weren’t wrong. I made sure that the boat trip we took visited a number of different spots to make the most of the trip. I booked the ‘Exploring the Green and Blue Caves’ with Hvar Tours which although it’s quite expensive, because you’re in a speed boat it’s limited in numbers and you also get to visit a number of stops.
Due to the weather and the wind the Blue Cave stop was moved to first so the itinerary was slightly changed. The boat took us to the drop off point where we got our ticket and then waiting an hour and a half for our number to come up and it was our turn to get into a boat.
We completely understood once we got there why any increase in wind means that the cave is closed as a full boat, with every one ducking down, only just fits through the opening! Once inside the cave it is pretty cool as an opening in the cave towards the sea 4m below sea level means that when the sun is shining the cave inside lights up an incredible blue colour, note it being called the blue cave. After a very quick tour round you’re shuttled back out and we jumped back on our own boat.
Was it amazing, yes, is it worth going, yes, but it’s now so touristy that is kind of ruins the phenomena.
Our next stop was the green cave which our guide quickly told us that a month prior was free, you now have to pay as they are trying to protect the cave a little better and you have to swim around the cave rather than be in a boat. He told us quite bluntly that it’s not that amazing and not worth the entry price they are asking. The rest of the boat took his advice and we moved onto Stiniva Cave which is a little lagoon. We jumped off the boat and finally got to test out one of Jacks new purchases; an underwater case for his iPhone. We stopped here for about 50 minutes, did some snorkelling, saw some fish, chilled on the beach and then swam back to the boat to leave for our next next destination.
Along the way we saw a number of different islands and our guide was great fun. Once we reached Palmizana, a bay on Paklinsi Otoci one of the island off of Hvar. Again it had a beautiful beach and some really cool restaurants and we just chilled by the sea.
Once back to Hvar we headed to Dalmatino for dinner. This was the restaurant recommended by our host and although we couldn’t book a table (they only take bookings for the first sitting at 6pm), we did go on the waiting list which you can only do by going on their website.
We timed our arrival perfectly and managed to get seated pretty much straight away. The service here was absolutely incredible and you absolutely see why it’s the best restaurant in Hvar. Alongside what you actually order we were treated to a shot with carob fruit and a complementary garlic bread to start, a brandy shot after our main course and a desert wine as well. Jack ordered their speciality of beef steak with gnocchi while I ordered a breaded stuffed chicken. For pudding Jack ordered Granny’s walnut cake while I had the chocolate cake. All of the food was amazing and the service was some of the best we’d ever received.
I hope you enjoyed my post of travelling through Hvar, Croatia. To read more about my Croatia Road Trip, click here.